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Biting is most common in young puppies and new dogs

Especially in play and while teething. It’s up to you to teach your puppy or dog what is acceptable and what is not. Most dogs and puppies are generally loving, sweet, adorable, affectionate and wonderful 99% of the time. Only 1% of the time does something specific happen that makes the dog bite. This article will discuss the causes of biting and what you can do to prevent your dog from biting.

Dogs and Puppies Must Learn to Inhibit Biting

First of all, dogs must learn to inhibit their bite before they are 4 months old. Normally, they would learn this from their mother, their littermates and other members of the pack. But, because we take them away from this environment before this learning is completed, we must take over the training.

Socialization Prevents Biting

By allowing your puppy to socialize with other puppies and socialized dogs they can pick up where they left off. Puppies need to roll, tumble and play with each other. When they play, they bite each other everywhere and anywhere. This is where they learn to inhibit their biting. This is where they learn to control themselves.

If they are too rough or rambunctious, they will find out because of how the other dogs and puppies react and interact with them. This is something that happens naturally and it is something we cannot accomplish. It can only be learned from trial and error. There is nothing you can say or do to educate them in this realm. They must learn from their own experience.

Socialization Prevents Biting

Another major advantage of dog to dog socialization besides the fact that it will help your dog to grow up not being fearful of other dogs is that they can vent their energy in an acceptable manner. Puppies that have other puppies to play with do not need to treat you like littermates. So the amount of play biting on you and your family should dramatically decrease. Puppies that do not play with other puppies are generally much more hyperactive and destructive in the home as well.
Lack of Socialization Causes Biting

A major cause of biting is lack of socialization. Lack of socialization often results in fearful or aggressive behavior. The two major reactions a dog has to something it is afraid of are to avoid it or to act aggressive in an attempt to make it go away. This is the most common cause of children being bitten. Dogs that are not socialized with children often end up biting them.

The optimum time to socialize is before the dog reaches 4 months. With large breed dogs, 4 months may be too late, simply because at this age the puppy may already be too large for most mothers of young children to feel comfortable around. For most owners, the larger the dog is, the more difficult it is to control, especially around children. If there is anything you do not want your dog to be afraid of or aggressive towards, you must begin to socialize your puppy with them before 4 months of age.

Trust and Respect Inhibits Biting

There are many other reasons your dog will bite and you will have to take an active role in teaching them. However, before you can teach your dog anything, there are two prerequisites that are essential. They are trust and respect. If your dog doesn’t trust you, there is no reason why he should respect you. If your dog does not respect you, your relationship will be like two 5 year olds bossing each other around. If your dog does not trust and respect you, then when you attempt to teach your dog something, he will regard you as if he were thinking, “Who do you think you are to tell me what to do?”

Use of Reprimands and Biting

Never hit, kick or slap your dog. This is the quickest way to erode the dog’s trust in you. Yes, he will still love you. Even abused dogs love their owners. A unique characteristic of dogs is their unconditional love. You don’t have to do anything to acquire your dog’s love. But you must do a lot to gain your dog’s trust and respect. Another area where we destroy our dog’s trust in us is when we scold or punish them for housesoiling mistakes and accidents. When house training your puppy, there is never an appropriate time to punish or reprimand. If you catch your dog in the act, just head for the towels and cleaner. You have no right to scold him, because if he is going in the wrong place, it is your fault, not his. If you find an accident after the fact, just clean it up.

Summary Tips on Biting

1. Reprimand alone will never stop biting.
2. If no respect exists, the biting will get worse. If you act like a littermate, the dog will treat you as one.
3. If trust is not there, the dog may eventually bite out of fear or lack of confidence.
4. Inconsistency sabotages training. If you let the dog bite some of the time, then biting will never be completely eliminated.
5. Don’t forget follow up. The dog must understand that it is the biting that you don’t like, not the dog itself. Make up afterwards, but on your terms, not the dog’s.

Most owners wait until a bite just “happens to occur” before trying to deal with it and are therefore totally unprepared when it happens – and do all the wrong things, thus making the problem worse.

If your dog already has a biting problem you might want to order the book “Help! My Dog Has an Attitude.”

Barking is a perfectly natural canine behavior… Ok, But How do I stop dog barking ?

Birds sing; frogs croak; and a dog barks, whines and howls. If you have a dog, you better expect some barking, whining or howling. It is unrealistic and unfair to think you can train your dog to stop barking altogether. However, you, your neighbors and your dog will all be much happier if the barking is under control.

Dogs who are socially isolated or confined for long periods without supervised exercise need some outlet for their pent-up energy. A dog who is left alone all day is likely to take up barking as a hobby because no one is there to control him. In no time at all, barking becomes an enjoyable habit. And for many dogs, once they start barking, they tend to continue barking for the sheer fun of it.

Your dog may be barking excessively because you unintentionally trained her to do so. Poochie speaks and you obey. “Woof” and you open the door to let puppy out. “Woof” and you open it again to let her in. “Woof” and she gets a treat, “woof” for a tummy-rub . . . you get the picture. Your dog has learned to get attention through barking. It is easy to fall into this trap because the very nature of barking gets your attention. For the same reason, it is easy to forget to praise and reward your dog when she is not barking.

Barking and Walkies!

The first step in obtaining peace and quiet is to realize that lots of barking is caused by the dog being lonely, bored, frustrated or frightened. These are all situations that you can help to alleviate. A well-exercised, happy dog is more likely to sleep all day while you are not home. Spend time playing with, training and exercising your dog.

Obedience training is great mental exercise. Thinking is a tiring activity for dogs, as it is for humans. Most dogs really enjoy a rapid paced, exciting “game” of Come here, sit, heel, sit, heel, down, stay . . . come here for hugs, a massage, a celebration of praise and treats. Don’t allow training to be a boring, tedious routine.

If your dog lives in the back yard most of the time, she probably needs “social exercise.” She needs walks around the neighborhood, so she can investigate all the sounds and smells that tantalize her while she is in the yard. Bring her into the house when you are home. She needs to feel that she is part of your family. Having a large yard is not equal to having a well exercised dog. You may see your dog dashing madly around your yard, but he is not exercising. He is doing the doggy equivalent of pacing, fidgeting, or other human forms of nervous activity. Provide your dog with fun things with which to occupy himself, such as a digging pit or special chew toys.

Dogs are social animals. They need friends and companionship. Take your dog to the same dog park daily or weekly and let her make doggy friends. Dogs romping around and playing together tire rapidly and will sleep happily while recovering from the good, hardy play session.

Nuisance Barking

Until you have re-trained your dog about her barking habits, she should be confined to a place where she will cause the least disturbance. Closing the drapes will help muffle the noise for the neighbors. In addition, confining the dog to the back of the house (away from the street) will keep disturbances to a minimum. Leave a radio playing to mask noises from the street. You may also want to have disconnect switches on the telephone and doorbell if these set off a barking spree.

“Stop Barking”

It’s no wonder people have barking problems with their dogs. Most dogs have no clue as to whether barking is something good or something bad. Sometimes when the dog barks, he is ignored (owner in a jolly mood). Other times, the dog is encouraged (owner sees suspicious stranger outside the house). And yet other times, the dog is yelled at (owner has a headache). Humans are consistently inconsistent. In order to help your dog know your rules, teach him what they are. Here is a good rule to start with: Barking is OK until the dog is told to “Stop Barking.” Think of “Stop Barking” as an obedience command rather that simply an unpredictable reprimand. Each time your dog barks, after two or three woofs, praise her for sounding the alarm. Then tell her, “Stop Barking.” Simultaneously, waggle an especially tasty food treat in front of her nose.

Most dogs instantly stop barking because they can’t sniff and lick the treat while barking. During this quiet time praise her continuously – - “Good girl, stop barking, what a good quiet dog you are, good dog . . .” After 3 seconds of no barking, let her have the treat. The next time she barks, require her to stop barking for 5 seconds before she gets the treat. Each time she is told to stop barking and succeeds, she will be rewarded.

If she barks even one little wooflet after you’ve given the command, scold her immediately. Timing is everything. As training proceeds, the required period of silence is increased gradually; at first “Stop Barking” means: No barking for the next 3 seconds, then 5 seconds, then 10 seconds and so on. Within a single training session, you can teach your dog to stop barking for up to 1 or 2 minutes. This is major progress, because whatever set off her barking in the first place is history, and she is likely to be quiet until the next disturbance.

The Consequences of Barking

When your dog stays quiet for the required period of time after you’ve asked her to please, “Stop Barking,” she is rewarded. When she makes a mistake, your unsuspecting poochie’s very next wooflet should be met with a cataclysmic, earthshaking 120 decibel “STOP BARKING!!!” Most dogs are so totally shocked and amazed by this horrendous outburst that they will stare at you in disbelief (and silence). If this outburst makes your dog more excited, then you might try an ice-cold I-mean-business tone of voice. Sometimes a splash of water in the face will do the trick. You must find something that will instantly make your dog stop barking. As soon as your dog stops barking, even for just a tenth of a second, you must immediately and instantly reward her. After enough repetitions your dog will learn the meaning of the command, “Stop Barking,” and you will no longer need your training props (water, treats, etc.)

Substituting the Barking Habit

If your dog’s excessive barking has already become a habit, don’t expect the barking to get under control overnight. It takes weeks of repetition to replace an old habit with a new one. If you keep up with these procedures, you will see a new pattern of barking develop. Instead of barking relentlessly at the insignificant, your dog will be barking appropriately and for a reasonable length of time. It is important that you maintain this new good habit through practice and praise or your dog may revive his old annoying barking habits again.

Socializing Your Puppy Should Be at the
Top of Your List When Training Your Puppy

A special benefit of socialization and one of the simplest ways to begin teaching your puppy not to bite and be so mouthy is to start socializing her with other puppies and dogs as soon as possible. In this case, socialization means playtime. Playtime means biting, mouthing, romping, tumbling and roughhousing. Puppies that have an outlet for these behaviors are less likely to use their human companions as littermate alternates.

Find a Doggy Playmate… It might take some time for your puppy to accept a new playmate and vice/versa, but be patient and generally they will become best doggy friends.

How do I find a Playmate? Enroll in a puppy training class, talk to your neighbors, take your puppy on walks around your neighborhood…

With just the opportunity to play with another dog on a regular basis, puppy biting can dramatically reduce. Socialization with other dogs plus instruction and training from you, usually stops the inappropriate biting in minimal time with minimal effort. If your puppy does not have an alternative outlet for it’s biting and mouthing, then humans, furniture, clothing, and fill-in-the-blank become the objects of the puppy’s teeth.

Socializing your puppy also helps her develop a secure and stable personality. It teaches your puppy how to behave in different situations and settings.

Socialization helps your puppy become an all around well-adjusted companion. Puppies who have not been socialized generally become fearful, skittish dogs who may be frightened and upset by everyday occurrences and unavoidable situations. They are untrustworthy and often have nervous, frenetic personalities. They tend to be biters and barkers. They often experience separation anxiety and submissively pee. Taking an un-socialized dog out in public can be a nightmare for both the dog and the owner.

Start Socializing your Puppy or Dog Now! – Don’t Delay…

Whatever the age of your puppy, start now. The sooner the better – and better too late than not at all. And the longer you wait, the more likely it will be too late. The younger the puppy the easier it is and more quickly it happens. The older the dog, the more time consuming and tedious the process. Sometimes so much so that socialization is unsuccessful.

Here’s an example of a very time limited aspect of socialization. A larger breed dog while still a very young puppy is relatively easy to socialize with children. But if you wait for a couple of months, the small, fuzzy, cute, non-threatening puppy suddenly begins looking more and more like a big dog that some parents may be hesitant to allow their young children around. It’s easy to control a smaller puppy to keep him from jumping up and being too exuberant. As the puppy grows, that jumping and exuberance becomes more difficult to handle and more likely a liability and risk, hence you don’t have as many opportunities to teach your puppy to accept and enjoy children.

Puppies are very impressionable and every experience
your puppy has will usually stay with him for life.

If your puppy does not experience the vacuum cleaner, then when he meets it for the first time later on, he will most likely be aggressive towards it or fearful of it. Now just substitute the words “vacuum cleaner” for any item, object, person, situation or event: such as loud noises, baths, car rides, cats, horses, umbrellas, hats, other dogs, people in uniform, etc.

Introduce your puppy to as many different situations and items and people as possible without overwhelming her. It’s essential that her experiences are pleasant or at least neutral so that she doesn’t associate these things with anything scary or painful. Make sure any other dogs or puppies or other pets that she plays with are friendly, healthy and vaccinated.

Your responsibility is mainly to provide the opportunity for your puppy to explore and experience new things in a controlled setting with minimal interference. You may subtly encourage confident behavior with the use of treats and praise. However, do not scold or reassure any hesitant behavior. Let your puppy find out on his own that the opened umbrella sitting in the middle of the living room is not a threat. If he has already shown signs of fear of let’s say the vacuum cleaner, then leave the vacuum in the middle of the room, unplugged and with a scattering of his favorite treats around and on the vacuum itself. This may take anywhere from a few hours to a few weeks depending on your puppy’s age and previous experience. When your puppy shows no signs of fear of it, then plug it in and turn it on only briefly and at some distance away so as to not blast your unsuspecting pooch into the next room.

Remember the idea of socialization is allow your pup to accustom herself to strange and different or new things in a pleasant way and non-threatening way. If you find that the item or situation is too much for your puppy, stop the session immediately and either try again with your puppy at a greater distance from the offending stimulus or find a way to minimize the situation to a level that is not over bearing for your puppy.

Dogs have a keen ability to sense our feelings and emotions. So if you find yourself upset or nervous about a particular item or situation, your puppy will probably pick up these same feelings. If you find yourself over-whelmed, you might also want to start with a situation where you yourself are comfortable and confident.

Before taking your puppy outside to public places, make sure she is vaccinated and has your veterinarian’s approval. Make sure any animals she comes in contact with are also vaccinated and healthy. In particular you want to avoid any place where stray dogs or unhealthy, unvaccinated dogs have access.

Generally your friends and family’s homes and yards are safe, as long as stray dogs are not able to roam freely on their property. Any place that is clean and safe for you and your children would most likely be safe for your puppy. Shopping centers and storefronts are great places to meet all kinds of new things. Some businesses allow dogs on their premises, so just ask. Be sure to take your doggy-diaper bag with you to clean up any accidents or messes your puppy may create. Take treats, water, toys and any other supplies that may come in handy. When in public, always make sure you can prove her registration and vaccination status.