Category Archives: Training Your Dog

Attention

An important aspect of obedience training is getting your dog’s attention. Your dog will not perform as readily if he isn’t paying attention to you. There are a number of things you can do to get his attention, and you should be sure to praise him for paying attention.

Attention goes both ways. In turn, YOU must pay close attention to your dog. Many dogs will stop being careful if they know you’re not paying attention. If there’s one piece of definitive advice about dog training this must be it.

Umbilical cords

Put your dog on a medium-to-short leash and tie him to your belt. Now, go about the house on your ordinary business. Do not pay attention to the dog. It will quickly learn to pay attention to you to determine when you are going to get up and walk around, or where you are going. This is an especially effective exercise with puppies and also lays a good foundation for learning to heel later. Start with short periods of time, say 15 minutes, and work up as your puppy gets older and more familiar with this exercise.

Watching

If you look up and catch your dog watching you (this is different from the staring contests mentioned above because the dog is not “staring” at you when he is watching you move around), praise him.

Food in your mouth, spitting it at your dog

An excellent exercise for teaching attention. It gets the dog to concentrate directly on your face, not your hands or pocket. Do this as a separate exercise, until your dog understands that he must watch your face. Also, DON’T let them pick up the food from the floor or ground. If you do, they will learn that they don’t have to catch the treat. They can just wait and pick it up. And don’t let them come back later to clean up.

Talking softly

Talk softly to your dog. He will have to pay more attention to you. This is especially effective when younger, and is a good habit to get into.

Attention as part of the exercise

Integrate attention into the exercises themselves. For example, heeling is not just keeping to your side in the proper manner, it’s also *paying attention* while heeling. Demand this attention as part of the heeling exercise, and your dog’s heeling ability should improve.

 

Comments on Training Methods

As I’ve pointed out, there are a number of different training methods available. None of these methods are perfect and none are guaranteed to work on your dog (regardless of what it says on the cover).

People frequently disagree over which methods are “good” and even which are “best.” This kind of argument is fairly pointless, as the effectiveness of each training method is subjective. Find one that works for you and don’t worry about criticisms. On the other hand, suggestions to help overcome specific training problems may be what you need and you shouldn’t reject it out of hand because it’s not in the method you chose.

A good trainer will be aware of many different ways to teach a dog how to do something. The best trainers can read their dogs and pick out the best match for that dog to teach him something. Not all of us are brilliant, but a willingness to drop something that is not working and try something else still lets us take advantage of finding the right way to teach a dog something. Over time with a particular dog, you should find that you are more likely to choose the right way to present a new concept to this dog.

Good results in obedience training require large doses of consistency, good timing, and patience. You must be consistent: use the same word for a particular command every time (e.g., don’t use “Come” sometimes and “Come here” other times). You must develop a fine sense of timing when introducing new commands and later correcting behavior on learned commands. Patience is needed: losing your temper is counterproductive. Get the whole family to agree on the commands, but have only one person train the dog to minimize confusion for the dog.

Establish a daily training period, preferably just before dinner. It can be as short as twenty minutes, or longer. Establishing a routine helps.

Don’t expect overnight success. It can take up to two years of consistent work, depending on the dog, for a properly trained dog. (This is where the patience comes in!)

You must praise often and unambiguously. A smile won’t do it. Give abundant verbal praise, scratch your dog on the head, etc.

Try making the command word part of a praise phrase. In this case, whenever your dog is in the desired heel position, you could say something like “Good heel!” in a praising tone of voice. Note that you only give the command once but that the command word is repeated in the praise phrase for reinforcement. That seems to satisfy the objective of the proponents of repeating the command (i.e. letting the dog hear the command often) without actually repeating it as a command. Further, because it is being said when the dog is doing it right rather than during a correction the dog doesn’t create any negative association with the command as the latter is likely to cause.

If you have a puppy — don’t wait! Enroll in a kindergarten puppy class once its up on its shots. Don’t wait until the pup is 6 months old to start anything.

Training before “six months of age” is fine if you see the puppy having fun with these lessons. Just remember to keep the lessons short, don’t loose patience when your puppy suddenly forgets everything it ever knew, and give it plenty of time just to be a puppy. In the long term, the time you spend with your puppy exploring, playing together and meeting new people is probably more important than your short “training” sessions, but both activities are very helpful.

Remember:

  • Make it fun for the pup.
  • Expect setbacks. Just because the pup understood what you meant yesterday, doesn’t mean he’ll remember it today. This means lots of repetition. Teach the basic commands: sit, stay, and come for now.

You may find it well worth your while, especially if you are new to training dogs, to attend obedience classes. Most places have local training schools. Be sure to check up on these places. Call the Better Business Bureau and your local SPCA for any specific complaints registered with them. Especially check carefully places where you ship your dog out to be trained: many of these places are suspect, because YOU must also be trained to handle your dog. Beware of advertising that claim LIFETIME warranties on the training, GUARANTEED solutions, etc. It is best for you and your dog to go through obedience training together, so that you both learn from each other.

No matter what kind of class you’re looking for: from basic puppy kindergarten for your little puppy to basic obedience for an older dog to more advanced training for a dog that’s already done some work, you’ll want to pick the class out carefully.

First and foremost, pick out a class where you are comfortable with the methods and the trainer. If you don’t start off with this footing, learning anything positive from the class simply won’t happen.

Next look at the size of the class and how much time the trainer spends with each person. Ideally, the smaller the class the better, although for puppy classes you want at least four or five dogs since socialization is an important part of the class. Does the trainer allocate time outside of class for questions (either an extra several minutes before or after class or giving you her phone number for class)? What sort of guarantees do they offer? If they say your pooch will be trained in six weeks permanently, no questions asked, run do not walk away from this outfit. If, however, they offer followup help after the class is over or offer a few extra classes for specific problems after or during the class, this is a good outfit.

Check out what their policy is with aggressive dogs in class. It does happen that one of the dogs attending the class frightens and intimidates the other dogs. There should be a clause for dismissing such a dog (or better yet, going into private training with it), or having it muzzled and otherwise restrained to minimize disruption to the class.

 

Rewards and Corrections

Keep these firmly in mind:

  • A REWARD results in an increase in the selected behavior.
  • A CORRECTION results in a decrease in the selected behavior.

Well that seems obvious enough, why did I bother putting those down? Because all too often, obvious as they may be, an astonishing number of people ignore them. How many times have you seen someone call their dog over and over and over again while the dog blithely ignores them? How many people wind up automatically rewarding their dog all the time until they find that the dog is either bored and wanders off, or won’t do a thing unless the food is held in front of them? How many people smack their puppies when he soils in the house but never wind up with a housetrained dog?

Let’s examine each of these scenarios in detail. The person who calls their dog repeatedly without doing anything is in fact teaching their dog that the “Come” command is meaningless. The dog is neither being rewarded for the correct behavior nor being corrected for the unwanted behavior. Therefore “Come” has no particular meaning for this dog.

If you consistently reward the dog no matter how he performs the selected behavior, you will have two things happen. First, the behavior will never improve as the dog has no feedback on which is “better”. Second, the dog learns that he always get rewarded, so the incentive to keep working (unless the dog is very food motivated) will decrease. Or, if the dog is strongly food motivated, he may flat out refuse to do anything the moment he realizes that he will not get food. In this latter case food has stopped being a reward and is now an entitlement and no longer will increased selected behavior.

A puppy that is smacked for soiling in the house has no way of associating the correction with the action, particularly if it happens well after the act. Furthermore, hitting a dog is interpreted by the dog as aggressive rather than corrective and so will not reduce the selected behavior.

Back to rewards. Rewards should be given in such a way as to increase the behavior in question. This means, to begin with, that it should be something your dog enjoys and is motivated by. For some (many) dogs, food will do. Toys, squeakies, tug toys, tennis balls, are often good bets. A few dogs seem to be motivated by verbal praise, although to be honest, not so many as people would like to think. In most cases dogs learn to accept verbal praise as a secondary reward, through association with a primary reward. You can also use multiple reward methods, especially if that interests your dog.

(A primary reward is something that is inherently rewarding to your dog — food, petting, toys, etc. A secondary reward is something that the dog learns is a reward. For example “Good Dog!”, a click, clapping. The technical term for a reward is positive reinforcer.)

When you reward a dog, it should be directly associated with the selected behavior. A reward is ineffective if you apply it at the wrong time. However, the most common problem with rewards is that people will inadvertantly reward a dog for unwanted behaviors. Here is an example: Your dog growls or barks when he sees other dogs. Since you think he is afraid, you pet him to calm him down. “It’s OK,” you say. “Nothing bad is going to happen.” OK, so what happened? The dog growled, you rewarded him. He’s no dummy; he’ll growl again in the hope of a reward next time.

Corrections are equally full of pitfalls. First of all, what constitutes a correction? That’s even more difficult to answer than for rewards. For some dogs, the tone of voice will do it, for others they’ll never notice it. Many typical corrections are really secondary (eg, learned) corrections. And, many typical corrections really don’t do anything other than make the dog afraid of you, or, when applied inconsistently, cause the dog to lose trust in you. Here is another classic example. Your dog is on the far edge of a field, and you call him. He doesn’t come. You call him again. He doesn’t come. No matter how often you call him, he doesn’t come, so you march over and start to correct him. Or, he finally comes over and by this time you’re so mad you correct him. So what happens? In the first instance, the dog may well have no idea what you’re mad about. If he’s never learned the “come” command (even if you think he knows it) then going over and popping him a couple of good ones will teach him that it’s really bad when you go near him! If he did come over to you and you popped him a good one, what do you think he’ll remember next time you call him to come? That’s right, you just applied a correction to a behavior (coming to you) in order to decrease it!

People very frequently misuse rewards and corrections in this way because many people seem to think that dogs really do know which are good and bad behaviors and will correctly associate one behavior (out of several) with the punishment. This simply is not the case. Dogs will associate what they most recently did with the correction or reward.